This is part three of the "10-bolt build up".  Once the axle was built up with a posi and Richmond 3.73s, now all we have to do is install it.  I used a lift with a Fuel Tank Jack, but this can be done in a driveway as long as you have something to help you remove the axle (its very heavy).

This was the set-up the car came with from the factory.  Drum brakes and an open 2.73:1 gear ratio was very inadequate.  I am replacing this axle with one equipped with rear disc.


You will need to start by removing the sway bar.  There are two endlinks, and two clamps that hold it to the rearend.  They look like muffler clamps.


You will need to remove the Torque Arm and the driveshaft.  The T/A has two 21mm bolts, and the driveshaft u-joint straps have four 11mm bolts.


You will need to loosen the e-brake cables so that they can be removed.  You will also need to remove the rear rubber brake hose.  Once you crack the fitting loose, remove the retaining clip and seperate the lines.


You will need to support the rear before removing any thing.  Once supported, remove the LCA bolts and the shock nuts.  Once removed, lower the rear and remove the spring and rubber.


Make sure everything is disconnected, and remove the rear.  Once out, remove the old axle from the support, and put the new one on.  Now is the time to install new speedo gears.


Once the rear is up in place on the car, there are a few attaching points that must be installed before the support can be removed.  They are:

 

1: Shocks

2: Torque Arm

3: Lower control arms.

You don't want to fully tighten the LCA bolts, since they must be tightened with the car at ride height.


You will basicly need to re-install everything that you removed.  There is no easier way to put it.  Make sure you get the brake line back together, and get the fitting tight and re-install the clip.  You may also need to loosen the e-brake some more to get the cables in.  I had to loosen it alot since I had new cables for the disc.

Once everything is bolted back up, put the wheels, and Track bar back in.  Double check everything.  You don't want something coming apart going down the highway or dragstip.  But if you went from drum to disc like I did, you arn't done yet.  Drum brake hydraulics are different than discs, so you need to replace the proportioning valve.

Once you replace this, then you can bleed the brakes.  You will also need to tighten the e-brake cable since it was loosend.

Now, Richmond also reccomends a "break-in" for threre gears.  Make sure you read the instructions since manufacturers reccomendations may vary.  Richmond reccomends for the 49 series gear, for street applications, that you drive for 10 miles and let them cool for thirty.  Repeat this two more times.  Basicly, you want the gears to establish a "wear pattern" without overheating.  If you overheat them, the gears will become "soft", and very vunerable to breakage.

 

Make sure the pedal feels good before you take the car out on the road.  If the pedal does not feel right, something may be wrong, and you may injure yourself or others.  Make sure the brakes are working properly!

Enjoy!

 

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