Fixing a sagging door

 

 

This is a very common problem, especially on 3rd Generation F-bods since the newest one is still eight years old, and go up to eighteen!  So having a sagging door is nothing new to many owners.  Hopefully this will provide some relief.  There are two reasons why a door sags, and each instance needs a different repair.   In case you can't see it in the picture on the right, this is a worn out hinge pin.  All you have to do is raise and lower the door, and you will see all the slop in the pin and bushing.  This obviously needs replaced.

 

Replacing the pin and bushing requires a little patience.  First step is to put masking tape on the forward edge of the door and the rear edge of the fender.  This will reduce the likelihood of the paint chipping when removing/installing the door. Then remove the spring between the door and body.  Be careful, this spring packs a mean punch. You can get the proper tool to remove the spring from places like Harbor Freight tools.  Its very inexpensive and will be a relief when it comes time to install the spring. You can try and tap out the pin and then unbolt the upper hinge, or vice versa, I did the pin first.  I would highly recommend having a friend help you, there is too much going on to try and balance the heavy door end on a floor jack.  There will be enough slack in the door wiring harness (if applicable) to move the door far enough out to knock out the bushing. 


You must orient the bushings properly.  If the old ones installed from the bottom-up like pictured, you must install the new one the same way.  To install like pictured above, I would place a socket larger than the bushing on top of the hole, then use a wooden paint stirrer on the bottom of the bushing.  Channel locks work great for "squeezing" it all together.  You need to use the channel locks to press the bushing into place.  The socket will allow the top of the bushing protrude out of the hinge and the wood stirrer will prevent damage to the soft bushing.  If the bushing installs from the top-down, then just reverse the procedure (socket at the bottom of the hole, stirrer and bushing on top of the hole).

This is a new pin and bushing installed.  You can't see from this picture, but my top hole on the bottom hinge was also worn out, but there is no bushing.  I simply drilled the hole out oversize and tapped a bushing in there also.  You will then need to re-install the spring. 

A little word of advise when replacing the pins/bushings:

The pins simply tap out, but it may be difficult to get something on the end of the pin to tap on.  You can also take vice grips and clamp unto the center of the pin, and tap on the vice grips to move the pin. 

Also note that the bushings are BRITTLE and if not installed carefully will crack and break.


 

The other "Cause/Correction" is simply a sagging hinge and you just need to bend it back.  The pins and bushings may be OK, but the door still sags.  This is simply due to gravity pulling on the heavy doors.

The tools you will need is pictured on the right.  They are available from a variety of places,  this one in particular was from MAC Tools (PN: DHA7554) and retails for $55.95.  Set-up is a snap and even easier to use.

Once properly installed, all you need to do is give a few short "tugs" upwards. This is a "trial and error" type deal.  Give it a few tugs and then take it off and test fit it.  If it needs more, hook it back up and do some more.  After the final fit is obtained, you will be surprised with the difference.  Most body shops should have this tool, and probably any dealership, if you wish to not purchase the tool.