Replacing V-belts with Serpentine belt setup.

 

First you will need to acquire all of your parts.  You will need the left and right brackets, A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump, crank pulley, water pump (serpentine pumps spin backwards), pump pulley, suction/discharge A/C hose, belt, and the studs and bolts for everything.  Most of this, if not all of it can be picked up at the boneyard, or other sources of used parts.  If you are going to remove the smog pump, you will need to re-route the belt differently, causing you to need a different size belt.  I used a Dayco 968K6.  You can get this about anywhere that sells belts.  I will talk about belt routing later.  If you have '85-'87 TPI, you will also need to replace the metal fuel pipes that run in front of the engine.  They are P/Ns: 10055875 & 10055874.  They run from the fuel rail to the flex hoses (not shown)


This is a glimpse of what the stock V-belt setup looks like.  It looks cluttered, is difficult to work on (too many akward brackets), the belts tend to squeal, and so on. 

Anytime you look up a procedure in a repair manual, they tell you to disconnect the negative battery cable, well, for this one, you definatly want to do that, since you will be altering the alternator wires.


Once you disconnect the battery cable, you can commence work.  you will need to have the A/C system sucked down by an A/C recovery machine, which means for most of you, taking it to a shop.  You will also need to drain your coolant.  Then remove the Air ducting going to the throttle body.


Since the A/C sytem is sucked down, we can go ahead and remove the A/C compressor.  You will need to remove all the brackets and bolts that hold it in place.  Don't just loosen them, take them all the way off and set them aside.  Also remove the A/C lines from the back of the compressor.


You need to finish removing the A/C lines.  You will need to undo the fitting at the condensor and the accumulator.  ALWAYS use two wrenches to avoid twisting the line. The V-belt suction/discharge line is bulky and rather akward, and will help "clean up" the engine bay once gone.

 


Now we can remove the Alternator.  Make sure you get the brackets off too, especially for the smog pump.  Now is also an ideal time to remove the lower radiator hose.

One thing to mention is the fuel lines.  What you see in the picture is not what you will have, these are custom lines to adapt a Y-body fuel rail to an F-body car.   If you have the '85-'87 TPI, you will need to replace the metal fuel lines.


Next step is to remove the water pump.  Don't even bother removing the pully, just remove the four bolts that hold it on.  Set these four bolts aside from the heap of V-belt crap, since you will need to reuse these on the new water pump.  Once the pump is gone, you can remove the power steering pump.  The fitting on the back is a 16mm, and since you must reuse this line, it is reccomended you break it free with a flare nut wrench.


       

 

The last step to freeing yourself from the V-belt nightmare is to remove the Crank pulley.  There are three 5/8" (16mm) bolts that bolt it to the balancer, and one crank bolt in the middle.  While you are down there, put the new one on.


Now is the time to start putting brackets on.  There is one stud on the passanger side.  Hopefully you got the bolts and studs with the brackets, since there are several different sizes.  It is best to put the stud in first, so that you have something to hold the bracket in place while you line other stuff up.

If the Torx bolts didn't get stripped out during removal, you can reuse them, if so, you will need to find a suitable alternative.


There are two small studs for the drivers side bracket.  You can also hang the bracket without ever removing the powersteering pump.  This is good, since it requires a special tool to do so.  After you get the bracket tightened down, hook your lines up.  It may be easier to get the line started, then hang the bracket.  Make sure it is good and tight, just don't round it off.


Now is also a good time to install the new A/C suction/discharge line.   It is reccomended that you use new O-rings, and don't forget to lubricate them with Mineral Oil (R-12 oil) even if you are using R-134.  PAG/POE oil is NOT good for A/C orings, USE ONLY mineral oil on the o-rings.  Also, don't forget to double wrench them to tighten the fittings, and don't over tighten.  They are made of soft aluminum.


The alternator can now be installed.  Your leads won't reach, since it is moved from the other side, but we will worry about that later.  There should also be another bracket to support the back of the alternator.  The one I used runs from the back of the alternator, down to the first stud on the exhaust.  Make sure you have it!  Most alternator manufacturers warranties are void if this isn't used, and it says so in the warranty!  Make sure you install it.


When you put the water pump on, make sure you use sealant on the bolts.  I reccomend liquid teflon which is available at most parts stores.  Also, use new gaskets, and install them dry!  NO RTV!!!  You don't need it. Then put the pulley on.

 


The A/C compressor can be mounted and the lines hooked up.  If you are using the smog pump, install that also and use the factory diagram to install the belt.  If you are not using the smog pump, use the alternate routing shown below. Make sure you use new O-rings on the compressor and remember, use mineral oil.


1988 Belt Routing


1989-1992 Belt Routing


Smog Pump Delete Routing


You will now need to alter the wiring to accomodate the new location of the alternator and compressor.  The wires for the compressor will need to be shortened (or you could just roll them up and tuck away) and the alternator wires will need to be lengthened.  Make sure you use suitable gauge wire to lenghten the battery lead to the alternator stud, since with a partially discharged battery, or under high load, the alternator could try and pass 60+ Amps through it!  Take care of any finishing touches, top off the P/S fluid and coolant and doublecheck everything.  You can now have your A/C system Evacuated (sucked to a vacuum) and recharged.

 

Before and After

 

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