T-56 CONVERSION FROM AUTOMATIC AND T-5

Special thanks to Craig Skiles for documenting his swap bit by bit as he went along.

 

THIS IS TO HELP ANYONE WHO IS CONSIDERING OR PLANNING TO DO THE T-56 SWAP INTO ANY 82-92 CAMARO.  I AM ASSUMING THAT THE SWAP WILL BE THE SAME FOR THE FIREBIRD, BUT IT HAS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE IN THE PAST THAT THERE ARE A FEW SUBTLE DIFFERENCES HERE AND THERE. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

 

THERE ARE ALREADY A NUMBER OF TECH ARTICLES OUT THERE ABOUT THIS SWAP AND TO BE HONEST ALL OF THEM HAVE LEFT ME SCRATCHING MY HEAD ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT ONE THING OR ANOTHER.  SO I  AM WRITING THIS IN ORDER TO MAKE IT A LITTLE MORE COMPLETE AND ANSWER A LOT OF QUESTIONS I KEEP SEEING ON THE MESSAGE BOARDS ABROAD.

 

THERE IS NO NEED FOR ME TO GO INTO DETAIL ABOUT HOW TO TAKE OUT A TRANSMISSION.  IF YOU NEED HELP WITH THIS, I SUGGEST THAT YOU BUY A HAYNES OR A CHILTONS MANUAL, THE LATER BEING PREFERABLE.  I WILL HOWEVER TALK JUST A LITTLE ABOUT PUTTING THE T56 INTO THE CAR TOWARDS THE END OF THIS ARTICLE.  EVERYTHING FOR THE T-56 DOES NOT HAVE TO COME FROM THE DONOR CAR, TRUST ME ON THIS ONE.

 

 

THINGS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE T-56 SWAP:

 

 

THINGS YOU CAN REUSE IF SWAPPING FROM THE T-5:

 

THINGS YOU CAN REUSE IF SWAPPING FROM AN AUTOMATIC:

 

 

 

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SO LETS START WITH THE GUYS WHO HAVE REMOVED AN AUTOMATIC, THERE ARE A FEW THINGS THAT YOU NEED TO DO FIRST IN PREPPING FOR THE INSTALLATION OF THE T-56.  THEY ARE:

 

1. REMOVE CENTER CONSOLE COMPLETELY AND DISCONECT  THE TWO CABLES  GOING TO THE SHIFTER BRACKET.

2. REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT IS WELDED TO THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL AND HOLDS THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY.

3. ON THE SHIFTER ASSBLY THERE IS A WIRE CONNECTOR WITH 6 WIRE LEADS.   YOU WILL BE NEEDING FOUR OF THESE LATER.

4. REMOVE THE TRANNY COOLER LINES IF WEIGHT IN YOUR VEHICLE IS SUCH A  FACTOR, EVERY BIT HELPS.

5. REMOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY SO THAT YOU CAN DRILL 3 NEW HOLES FOR THE BRAKE/CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.

6. YOU WILL NEED TO CUT A LARGE CUTOUT IN THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL SO THAT THE T-56 SHIFTER HOUSING WILL FIT. YOU WILL SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT WHEN YOU INSTALL THE T-56.

7. I KNOW THAT JUST ABOUT EVERY ONE HAS THIER WAY OF DOING THINGS, BUT JUST IN CASE, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE TV CABLE FORM THE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY IF YOU DISCONNECTED IT AT THE TRANNY, YOU WILL OBVIOUSLY NOT BE NEEDING THIS EITHER.

 

OK, USE WHATEVER YOU CAN (CHISEL & HAMMER, AIR CHISEL) TO  REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT HELD THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THERE ABOUT FOUR OR FIVE TACK WELDS THAT HOLD IT ON, GOODLUCK, IT'S A BITCH.

 

TO REMOVE THE TRANNY COOLER LINES, I FOUND IT MOST SIMPLE TO USE A GOOD PAIR OF CUTTERS, BECAUSE ITS GOING TO BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO WIGGLE THOSE DAMN LINES OUT.

 

TO REMOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY, YOU WILL NEED TO FIRST REMOVE THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE LINES, THEN DROP THE HUSH PANEL UNDERNEATH THE DRIVERS SIDE DASH.  HERE I FOUND IT EASIER THE SECOND TIME AROUND TO JUST LET DOWN THE STEERING COLUMN AND USE A 4' EXTENSION BAR TO SEE AND REMOVE THE 4 NUTS THAT HOLD ON THE BRAKE BOOSTER TO THE FIREWALL.  IT WILL ALSO MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE THE IGNITION SWITCH TO REMOVE THE LOCKING MECHANISM ATTACHED TO THE SWITCH THAT PREVENTED YOU FROM TAKING THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN YOU WERE IN ANY GEAR OTHER THAN PARK.  AFTER REMOVING THE 4 NUTS, I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS ANOTHER NUT STILL HOLDING THE ASSEMBLY ON.  THIS NUT IS IN SORT OF A TOUGH PLACE. IF YOU POKE YOUR HEAD UP UNDER THE DASH LOOKING UP TOWARDS THE DASH PAD YOU WILL SEE IT.  IT'S ABOUT CENTER OF THE BRAKE PEDAL ITSELF, A 6" EXTENSION WILL DO JUST FINE HERE.  AFTER REMOVING ALL 5 NUTS NOW, IT WILL BE EASIER TO REMOVE THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH AND CRUSIE CONTROL INTERRUPT SWITCH IF EQUIPPED.

 

AS FOR THE DRILLING OF THE THREE HOLES NEEDED FOR THE NEW BRACKET AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER, I CAN ONLY SUGGEST WHAT I DID, BECAUSE THE HOLE THAT WAS SPECIFIED IN ANOTHER ARTICLE FOR THE SHIFTER TO COME THROUGH THE TRANNY TUNNEL WHEN I WAS INSTALLING THE T-5 WAS WAY TO LARGE.  THE BEST WAY I THINK IS TO FIND A REFERENCE POINT ANYWHERE IN THE CAR, LIKE A POINT ON THE FIREWALL, SOMETHING THAT IS THE SAME IN ALL CAMAROS AND NOT JUST SOME MODELS.  THIS OF COURSE ONLY WORKS IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A CAR THAT HAD A T-5 IN IT.  I CAN SEND MEASUREMENTS UPON REQUEST BUT RATHER NOT.   I WILL TELL YOU THAT THAT THERE IS A TECH ARTICLE OUT THERE ON A POPULAR BOARD ABOUT SWAPPING IN A T-5 FROM AN AUTOMATIC.  YOU CAN USE THIS ARTICLE AS A GUIDE FOR THE T-56 AS LONG AS YOU MOVE THE ENTIRE HOLE BACK ABOUT 2" AND CHANGE THE WIDTH TO BE 1' NARROWER.  DOUBLE CHECK IT FIRST, DON'T TAKE MY WORD ON IT.

FOR THE CLUTCH/BRAKE ASSEMBLY YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL 3 HOLES.  ONE ARTICLE MENTIONED ABOUT THERE BEING A CUTOUT ON THE RUBBER PADDING/ISULATION OF WHERE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER WOULD GO IF THE CAR WAS SO EQUIPPED.  WELL THERE WAS.  IF YOUR CAR DOES NOT, I CAN SEND A MEASUREMENT TO YOU BY TAKING MEASUREMENTS OFF FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL ROD THAT GOES THROUGH THE FIREWALL.   IT WILL BE A BITCH IF YOU DONT HAVE THESE HOLES RIGHT, PROMISE.  WHEN I GOT READY TO DO THIS I HAD THE CUTOUTS THERE AND JUST USED A 1.25" HOLE SAW TO MAKE TWO HOLES.  THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER BOLTS TO THE FIREWALL AT AN ANGLE THEREFORE DRILLING TWO HOLES SORT OF ELONGATES THE HOLE TO ALLOW THE CYLINDER TO BE AT THE RIGHT ANGLE.  AFTER THE HOLE IS DRILLED I THEN USED A STANDARD DRILL BIT ABOUT TWO SIZES UP FROM THE ACTUAL BOLT SIZE AND DRILLED TWO HOLES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE ONE I JUST DRILLED.  THESE HOLES SERVE TWO PUPOSES. ONE BEING THAT THE 'U' BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER UP AGAISNT THE FIREWALL WILL COME THROUGH THESE HOLES FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND (SECOND) THEN GO THROUGH THE HOLES OF THE BRACES THAT ARE FOUND ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY WITH TWO NUTS TO SCREW ONTO THE 'U' BOLT.  ITS A PIECE OF CAKE!

 

 

 

SO NOW YOU HAVE ALL YOUR HOLES CUT AND YOUR PEDAL ASSEMBLY IN PLACE, AND YOU HAVE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER IN READY TO GO.  HERE'S SOMETHING THAT YOU NEED TO DO AS WELL.  YOU NEED TO TAKE THE TWO LARGEST GAUGE WIRES THAT ARE ON THE 6 WIRE CONNECTER THAT YOU UNPLUGGED FROM THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY AND CUT THEM.  YOU ARE GOING TO RUN THESE WIRES INTO THE CLUTCH START SWITCH.  I WILL EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCES IN COLOR OF THE WIRES AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS ARTICLE WITH SOME OTHER DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MODEL YEARS.  YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO FIND THE TWO WIRES THAT CONTROL THE REVERSE LIGHTS (TAN W/ WHITE STRIPE & LIGHT GREEN-CHECK YOUR MANUAL)    AND RUN THESE OUT THE HOLE YOU CUT FOR THE SHIFTER, OR YOU CAN RUN THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND BACK THROUGH THE TRANNY TUNNEL.  THE REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH IS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE T-56.

 

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FROM HERE YOU SHOULD BE CAUGHT UP TO THE GUYS WHO HAVE REMOVED THE T-5.  THEY SHOULD HAVE BY NOW SWAPPED OUT THE NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER HYDRAULICS AND BE SCRACTHING THEIR HEAD AS TO WHY THE CLUTCH ROD FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER WILL NOT FIT PROPERLY ON THE PEDAL.   I WILL EXPLAIN THIS AT THE BOTTOM.

 

 

NOW YOU NEED TO NOW PUT ON THE T-56 FLYWHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE.  ONCE YOU HAVE THE FLYWHEEL AND PRESSURE PLATE BOLTED UP USING THE NEW BOLTS YOU HAVE GOTTEN FROM THE DEALER YOU ARE NOW READY TO LIFT UP THE TRANNY.

YOU MUST LIFT THE TRANNY UP AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE AND AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN GET THE TRANNY TO THE ENGINE BLOCK WITHOUT SCRAPPING THE INPUT SHAFT ON THE PRESSURE PLATE, OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE THERE ALL DAY AND NIGHT TRYING TO GET IT IN AND MESSING UP THE INPUT SHAFT AND PUTTING UNNECESSARY STRESS ON IT.  ONE WAY TO GET THE TRANNY UP THERE IS TO START BACK IN THE TRANNY TUNNEL A BIT FURTHER AND LIFT AND PUSH AT THE SAME TIME.  YOU WILL SEE THAT IT IS BETTER TO JUST LIFT THE TRANNY STRAIGHT UP BECAUSE AS YOU GET TO THE TOP OF THE TUNNEL THINGS START TO GET KIND OF TIGHT. 

OBVIOUSLY DO NOT TRY TO SHOVE THE TRANNY AS HARD AS YOU CAN TOWARDS THE BLOCK TO MAKE THAT .25" OR .125" GAP GO AWAY, OR PUT BOLTS IN TO DRAW THE TRANNY TO THE BLOCK.  YOU WILL SCREW UP THE PILOT BEARING DOING THIS!! YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF TAKING THE TRANNY OUT AGAIN AND REPLACING THE BEARING ALONG WITH THE INPUT SHAFT BECAUSE IT DID NOT HAVE THE SUPPORT IT NEEDED.

ONCE YOU HAVE THE TRANNY UP AGAISNT THE BLOCK, IT WOULD BE WISE TO PUT IN A FEW OF THE TRANNY TO ENGINE BLOCK BOLTS. FROM THERE,  I WOULD THEN GO AHEAD AND PUT ON THE X-MEMBER AND MOUNT OF YOUR CHOICE.  I WILL DESCRIBE A FEW DIFFERENCES OF THESE AT THE BOTTOM.

 

SO THERE YOU ARE, THE TRANNY IS BOLTED UP TO THE BLOCK AND YOU HAVE THE X-MEMBER BOLTED IN AND READY TO MOVE ON.   NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS JUST SLIDE THE CLUTCH FORK ON THE BEARING, YES YOU CAN DO THIS WHILE THE TRANNY IS BOLTED ONTO THE BLOCK WHILE THE SLAVE CYLINDER COVER IS OFF, JUST USE A FLASHLIGHT AND LOOK UP IN THE OPENING AND YOU CAN SEE THE BEARING.  AFTER SLIPPING THE FORK ON TO THE BEARING PUT THE COVER ON AND THEN BOLT THE SLAVE CYLINDER COVER ONTO THE TWO STUDS.  

ONE THING I CAN NOT EXPLAIN IS HOW YOU WOULD BOLT UP THE EXHAUST BRACKET TO THE TRANNY.  MY EXHAUST IS STILL STOCK AND I USED SPOHN T-56 RETROFIT TORQUE ARM . SO I JUST TIED IT UP FOR THE TIME BEING UNTIL I FIGURE OUT WHAT I AM GOING TO DO. STILL HAVE THE EXHAUST ITSELF TO REPLACE AND WHAT OTHERS DID WITH THE BRACKET, I HAVE YET TO ASK. SORRY.

FINALLY, BOLT UP THE DRIVE SHAFT AND TORQUE ARM IF EQUIPPED (SEE BELOW).  NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO US MAKE ALL YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.  THERE ARE 4 YOU NEED TO MAKE.

1. REVERSE LOCKOUT - WIRE TO THE BRAKE SWITCH, IT WILL MAKE LIFE EASIER

2. VSS SIGNAL TO ECM AND SPEEDOMETER - I SUGGEST WWW.JAGSTHATRUN.COM FOR A SOURCE ON THIS INFO IF YOU HAVE A MECHANICAL SPEEDO

3. REVERSE LIGHTS

4. CLUTCH STARTER SWITCH

 

AND OF COURSE THE 'CAGS' CONNCECTION IS FOR THOSE GUYS THAT DON'T KNOW HOW TO DRIVE A REAL CAR, YOU WILL NOT BE NEEDING THIS FEATURE BECAUSE YOU DRIVE A THIRDGEN.  ANYWAY, I WOULD SUGGEST USING A PLUG TO COVER THE CONNECTORS THAT ARE EXPOSED.  THAT'S JUST ME.

 

 

SOME THINGS OF INTEREST:

 

THE T-56 FLYWEEL IS DIFFERENT FROM THE T-5 FLYWHEEL.  THE T-56 IS MUCH THICKER THAN THE T-5 OFF A BLOCK THAT'S 1988 AND NEWER. AS FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE IT IS THE OPPOSITE.  THE PRESSURE PLATE FOR THE T-56 IS A BIT THINNER THAN THE ONE USED FOR THE T-5 AND AS YOU ALREADY KNOW FROM READING ALL OVER THE BOARDS, THE CLUTCH SETUP IS ASS BACKWARDS!! (THANK YOU GM ENGINEERING!)  THE CLUTCH ON THE T-56 WORKS LIKE THIS (in simple terms):

THE THROWOUT BEARING IS INSTALLED INTO THE PRESSURE PLATE FROM THE FRONT SIDE OF THE PLATE AND OBVIOUSLY BEFORE YOU BOLT THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLYWHEEL.  THE BEARING STICKS OUT OF THE PRESSURE PLATE ENOUGH SO THAT THE CLUTCH FORK WILL ATTACH TO THE BEAING AND PULL THE FINGERS  (TOWARDS THE TRANNY) AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL AND PULL THE SURFACE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL.  WHEREAS THE T-5 BEARING SITS COMPLETELY BEHIND THE PRESSURE PLATE AND AROUND THE INPUT SHAFT OF THE TRANNY, THE BEARING PUSHES ON THE FINGERS (TOWARDS TO THE ENGINE) PUSHING THE SURFACE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL ALLOWING THE CLUTCH DISK TO SPIN FREELY.

ALSO THE FLYWHEELS WILL DIFFER DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE OF REAR SEAL YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE BLOCK.  I BELIEVE YOU WILL FIND THE ONE PIECE REAR SEALS STARTED IN 1987 OR MIGHT HAVE BEEN 86 (CAN'T REMEMBER AT THIS TIME) AND WILL WORK FINE WITH THE T-56 FLYWHEEL.  IF YOU HAVE AN EARLIER BLOCK, LIKE I DO, THEN YOU NEED TO GO OUT AND FIND ANOTHER FLYWHEEL THAT HAS THE BOLT TO CRANK PATTERN AS THE 1986 AND OLDER FLYWHEELS HAVE.  CENTERFORCE MAKES A FLYWHEEL FOR THIS APPLICATION AND DEPENDING ON WHICH DEALER YOU USE, IT CAN COST ANYWHERE FROM $240 TO $360 AS WHAT NOPI QUOTED ME.

ONE MORE THING ABOUT THE FLYWHEEL FOR THE T-56, DON'T HOLD ME TO THIS, BUT I THINK THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN THE BOLT PATTERN FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE TO BOLT ON TO THE FLYWHEEL THEN FROM A T-5.

 

BOTTOM OF ARTICLE:

 

LS1 T-56,  DON'T BOTHER, THIS TRANNY IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT.  THE BELLHOUSING BOLT PATTERN IS DIFFERENT FROM THE REST.

 

THE TWO LARGE GAUGE WIRES YOU CUT OFF FROM THE 6 PLUG WIRE CONNECTOR ON THE AUTOMATIC SHIFTER ARE YELLOW AND PURPLE FOR EITHER 1988 OR 1987 AND OLDER, AFTER 1988 TO 1992 THE WIRES ARE I BELIEVE YELLOW AND GREEN,  EITHER WAY,  THEY WILL BE THE TWO LARGEST GAUGE WIRES ON THAT CONNECTOR.  DO YOUR SELF A FAVOR AND LOOK IN THE MANUAL AND DO THE RESEARCH YOURSELF. SAME GOES FOR THE REVERSE LIGHT WIRES ON THAT SAME CONNECTOR.  THE LAST TWO WIRES THAT ARE LEFT, I WOULD JUST LEAVE, CUT AND TAPE THEM UP SO THAT THERE IS NO CHANCE FOR BARE WIRE TO MAKE CONTACT WITH ANYTHING IN THE CAR.

 

STARTERS --- ONE OF MY FAVORITE SUBJECTS IN THE PAST.  I WILL TRY TO BE NICE AND JUST SAY THAT THERE ARE SOME IDIOTS OUT THERE THAT BELIEVE THAT A STARTER FOR AN AUTOMATIC IS THE SAME FOR A MANUAL TRANNSMISSION, NO IFS ANDS OR BUTTS.  WELL ALL I KNOW IS THAT WHEN I SWAPPED OUT THE AUTOMATIC FOR THE T-5, THE STARTER WOULD NOT FIT BECAUSE THE GEAR HOUSING WAS DIFFERENT IN SHAPE, DIDN'T HAVE TO DO IT FOR THE T-5 TO T-56 SWAP, BUT ACCORDING TO SOME PEOPLE, ON THAT AGAIN NOTORIOUS NAMELESS BOARD, WOULD SAY I DON'T KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT.  TELL YOU WHAT, SAVE YOURSELF SOME GRIEF AND GO AND TAKE YOUR STARTER TO THE AUTOMOTIVE PARTS STORE (I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND NAPA, JUST FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE) ASK THEM TO PULL ONE OF EACH OUT AND COMPARE THE TWO FOR YOUR YEAR AND MODEL.  IT WILL SAVE YOU SOME TIME.

 

THE EYE-ROD ON THE NEW GM HYDRAULIC MASTER CYLINDER KIT FOR THE T-56 WILL NOT FIT ONTO THE POST OF THE STOCK CLUTCH PEDAL OUT OF A 1982-1992 CAMARO.  YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC INSERT IN THAT EYE-ROD AND FIND A WAY TO KEEP THE ROD FROM SLIPPING OFF THE POST.  I WILL NOT TELL YOU WHAT I DID SO THAT YOU DON'T COME RUNNING BACK TO ME IF YOU HAVE AN ACCIDENT.  AS ALWAYS, I COULD BE WRONG AND JUST HAD A SPECIAL SITUATION IN MY CASE.

 

X-MEMBER (TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER) - HERE, I WOULD JUST SAY GO WITH THE SPOHN T-56 RETROFIT TORQUE ARM FOR THE 1982 - 1992 CAMARO/FIREBIRD.  REASON BEING IS THAT FOR ONE THE BRACKET FOR THE EXHAUST IS A BITCH TO DEAL WITH WHEN TRYING TO GET THE TORQUE ARM BACK UP AFTER CUTTING IT DOWN TO THE CORRECT SIZE (REMEMBER THAT THE T-56 SITS BACK A COUPLE OF INCHES MORE THAN THE AUTOMATIC AND T-5 AND YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF I THINK AS ONE ARTICLE SAID, 1.9".....OOOK) ANOTHER REASON IS, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU GONE THROUGH THOSE TRANSMISSION RUBBER MOUNTS?.....YOU WILL NEVER BREAK  ONE AGAIN WITH THE SPOHN  TORQUE ARM, BECAUSE IT RELOCATES THE TORQUE ARM TO THE X-MEMBER - MAKING IT VERY SOLID!! THAT AND YOU GET AN ADJUSTABLE TORQUE ARM AND A DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP ALL COMBINED INTO THE TRANNY X-MEMBER.  WHAT A DEAL!!

 

ONE MORE THING FOR YOU GUYS WHO HAVE THE 90-92 CAMARO ELECTRIC SPEEDOMETER (EVERYONE ELSE GO TO JAGS THAT RUN'S WEBSITE).  DEPENDING ON WHAT YEAR MODEL AND ENGINE YOU HAVE DETERMINES THE TYPE OF SIGNAL YOUR VSS PUTS OUT.  IT WILL BE EITHER A 2,000 PULSE PER MILE OR A 4,000 PULSE PER MILE SIGNAL, CHECK YOUR MANUAL.  THE VSS ON 93 AND NEWER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS PUTS OUT A 40,000 PULSE PER DRIVESHAFT REVOLUTION!  BIG DIFFERENCE.  I AM ASSUMING THAT THE T-56 VSS IS SIMILAR TO THE AUTOMATIC VSS IN 93 AND NEWER CAMAROS, BUT ITS DANGEROUS TO ASSUME SUCH A THING.  ONE OPTION IS TO GO THE WEBSITE MENTIONED ABOVE (WWW.JAGSTHATRUN.COM) AND SPEND WELL OVER $300 DOLLARS FOR THE TAILSHAFT CONVERSION, OUCH!! OR THERE IS ANOTHER OPTION.

CYBERDYNE APPARENTLY MAKES A CALIBRATION BOX THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF THIS PROBLEM.  WELL I CALLED JEGS TO SEE IF THEY HAD ANY TECHNICAL INFO ABOUT THIS BOX AND AS USUAL IT'S ALWAYS BEST TO CALL THE MANUFACTURERS THEMSELVES.  HERE'S WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD: CYBERDYNE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THEIR CALIBRATION BOX FOR ANY GM VEHICLE.  APPARENTLY THEY HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE BOX CASUING PROBLEMS WITH THE ECM AND THE TCC. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, DON'T JUST GO OUT AND PURCHASE IT BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID THAT IT WORKS. DO YOUR HOMEWORK.  SOME SAY THAT IT DOES WORK BUT CAN NOT GET AN EXACT READING ON THE SPEEDOMETER, OTHERS I HAVE NOT HEARD FROM, MAYBE THEY ARE HAVING PROBLEMS?...WHO KNOWS..... A THIRD OPTION IS TO MAKE A DIVIDER/MULTIPLIER CIRCUIT, SORRY I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRONICS SO YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN WITH THIS ONE.  A FOURTH OPTION IS TO GO TO DAKOTA DIGITAL'S WEBSITE AND ORDER THE 'SGI-5' SPEEDOMETER INTERFACE.  THIS BOX COSTS THE SAME AS CYBERDYNE'S CALIBRATION BOX OFFERED BY JEGS.  THEY HAVE A GREAT TECHNICAL SUPPORT AND ARE VERY FRIENDLY COMPARED TO CYBERDYNE AND JEGS TECH PEOPLE.

 LAST OPTION IS  FOR YOU TO FIGURE OUT SOMETHING YOURSELF.  JUST DON'T LET THE VSS GO UNCONNECTED FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME, IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN YOUR GAS MILAGE AND COULD BE THE REASON WHY MY ECM FRIED A 1,000 MILES AWAY FROM HOME, WHO KNOWS, ELECTRONICS IS SORT OF FUNNY IN MY OPINION, BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT DO I KNOW!

 

 

GOOD LUCK ON YOUR SWAP.

 

 

This article was written by Craig Skiles.

 

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